Where to Eat in Rome Easter Sunday and Monday

UPDATED FOR 2025! Easter in Rome is a time of grand feasting and deep-rooted traditions and the city is abuzz with both locals and visitors celebrating Pasqua (Easter Sunday) and Pasquetta (Easter Monday). The scent of roasted lamb and artichokes fills the air as families gather for long, leisurely meals. If you’re lucky enough to be invited into a Roman home, you’ll experience the full spectrum of Easter’s culinary delights–abbacchio al forno (roasted suckling lamb), coratella (lamb pluck stew), and carciofi alla romana (braised Roman artichokes). But even if you’re visiting and dining out, don’t worry—you can still enjoy a … Read more

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Easter / Eat / Monday / Rome / Sunday

Holy Hustle: A Survival Guide to Rome’s Jubilee

So, you’ve decided to brave the divine chaos that is the 2024-2025 Vatican Jubilee Year. Congratulations! You’re about to dive headfirst into what promises to be the most celestial stampede Rome has ever seen. Tens of millions of pilgrims and curious wanderers are flocking to Rome this year, turning it into the spiritual equivalent of Times Square on New Year’s Eve—but with more incense and less Andy Cohen. Buckle up, because navigating this divine madness requires a blend of patience, savvy planning, and maybe even a touch of divine intervention. What the Jubilee Year Actually IsThe Jubilee Year is a … Read more

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Guide / Holy / Hustle / Jubilee / Romes / Survival

Recipes for the Feast of Seven Fishes

I grew up in an Italian American family in New Jersey, where’s it’s practically the law to celebrate Christmas Eve with the so-called “Feast of Seven Fishes.” No one knows why we eat seven kinds of seafood (though the repetition of 7 in the Bible could be a motive), though it is clearly a Catholic custom to abstain from meat on sacred days. I often joke that if you only served 7 types of fish on December 24 in Italy no one would accept an encore visit to your paltry spread. The truth is, no one here is actually counting, … Read more

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Feast / Fishes / Recipes

Holiday Gift Guide: What to Get the Italy Lovers in Your Life

My friend made a salami Christmas tree! This year can end on a high note! I guess one way to do it is to craft yourself a Christmas tree made of cured meats like my pal Silvio Imperati of Salumificio Cardone in Agerola. Another is to give gifts purchased from small businesses and celebrate the spirit of Italian artisanship with thoughtful items for the kitchen, bookshelf, and beyond. Wine & Cocktails First up, vino. A few years ago, Joe Campanale wrote an incredible book about Vino Italiano. Pair it with a themed wine box from Biondivino or a few bottles … Read more

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Gift / Guide / Holiday / Italy / Life / Lovers

A Guide to Rome’s Best Coffee Shops

Rome is home to the full range of coffee bars that represent the state of coffee drinking in Italy today: from pre- and post-war bars with old-world interiors and a balance of traditional atmosphere and service blended with modern sourcing practices; to mid- and later-20th century cafes in which going for a coffee is almost more about the experience than the drink; and finally a more recent cadre of specialty coffee establishments with greater attention to bean sourcing and other facets of modern coffee culture.  Historic (1930s-40s) Roman Coffee Bars Sciascia Caffè Sciascia prides itself on having sourced “artisanal” coffee … Read more

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Coffee / Guide / Romes / Shops

Recipe: Crema di Pistacchi (Pistacchio Cream)

For someone who travels as much as I do, you would think I would know how to pack fine foods to avoid having them confiscated by security. That, sadly, is not the case. Each time I fly out of the Catania airport (the closest major airport to Noto, a pilgrimage destination for sweets lovers who rightfully worship pastry chef Corrado Assenza of Caffè Sicilia), I accidentally pack a jam, a spread, or a bottle of something acquired on my journey in my carry-on. In one of my worst incidents, security pulled my bags off the conveyor and confiscated three jars … Read more

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Cream / Crema / Pistacchi / Pistacchio / Recipe

C’è Pasta…e Pasta For Roman Jewish Classics

There’s this extraordinary slice of Rome wedged between the Stazione Trastevere, the Tiber, and McDonalds. If you can overlook the aromas emitted by the latter landmarks, this swath of Trastevere’s deep south is almost perfect. In addition to its pretty, pastel-hued 1920s housing blocks and views of Monte Testaccio and Gazometro, it is home to some seriously delicious food. For natural wines and Roman specialties with some Umbrian and Sardinian dishes woven into the menu, there’s Tavernaccia Da Bruno. Around the corner, Pizzeria L’Elementare and the second location of craft beer pub Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà. Just a … Read more

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/ Classics / Jewish / Pasta / Pasta...e / Roman

Pesto Recipes from the Italian Islands

Certain brand names become eponymous with the products or foods they represent. Even in this new era of heightened awareness of Italian regional cuisines, the word “pesto” has met a similar fate, becoming synonymous with a specific version: pesto alla genovese, a blend of basil, pine nuts, garlic, olive oil, and grated cheese from Genoa in Liguria. But pesto isn’t defined by a single city’s tradition, and it’s not unique to northwestern Italy. It can be any pasta sauce made by mashing together ingredients in a mortar and pestle (or blending them in a food processor) and is typically composed … Read more

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Islands / Italian / Pesto / Recipes

Where to Eat and Drink in Rome During the Holidays

UPDATED FOR 2024/2025! There’s a persistent myth that Rome’s restaurants shutter entirely over the Christmas and New Year’s holidays, leaving visitors to fend for themselves. While it’s true that some venues close or operate on limited hours, the good news is that Rome offers fantastic dining options during the holidays—with a bit of advance planning. This guide has been meticulously updated with the latest opening hours to ensure you enjoy Rome’s culinary scene during the festive season. Expect some closures, but rest assured, many excellent spots remain open. Pro Tips: •Always call venues during service hours or book online well … Read more

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Drink / Eat / Holidays / Rome

A Gastronomic Road Trip From Rome to Naples

While the high-speed train zips between Rome and Naples in just over an hour, I much prefer to meander between these vibrant cities. My travels are a culinary quest, and after 20 plus years living in Rome, I’ve discovered that the artichokes and pastas you encounter along the way rival the delights waiting upon arrival. So, I extend the journey into a leisurely four-day adventure, savoring meals at centuries-old trattorias and exploring the mesmerizing volcanoes and majestic Bourbon palaces that give this region of Italy its unique charm. DAY 1 When I turned up to the rental agency at 9:00am, … Read more

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Gastronomic / Naples / Road / Rome / Trip