Refreshed by the mistral wind that ripples the sea and billows the fragrant sheets left to dry in the sun, I was literally captivated by the beauty of Puglia.
For many years, my family and I had wanted to visit this region in southern Italy, but our numerous travels, sometimes thousands of kilometers away, had made it impossible. This year, driven by the fact that Marinella and I hadn’t seen each other for over five years, we decided to take the first direct flight to Brindisi.
Final destination: the white city of Ostuni, where Marinella spends her summers reconnecting with her roots. Our meeting point was a small beach in the Coastal Dunes Park, and after a long hug warmed by the setting sun, we toasted, chatted, and laughed a lot over an aperitif made with the typical Puglian barattiero melon.
Following Marinella’s precious advice, in the following days, my family and I explored the small villages of the Valle d’Itria, making a daily stop in the baroque city of Lecce.
During the five days we spent in this magnificent region, I would ask my husband and daughters each evening what, in their opinion, set Puglia apart from other regions or even other countries we had visited so far.
Here’s why Puglia touched our hearts so deeply:
The Whiteness of the Small Villages Perched on Gentle Hills
First among them is Ostuni, where we were pampered for five days by the hospitality of the hosts at Masserie Maresca. Perched on a hill, Ostuni, also known as the “White City,” reflects its whiteness on the surrounding countryside and offers a breathtaking view from its summit all the way to the sea, crossing the intense green of the Coastal Dunes Park. The historic center encloses within it brilliantly white houses clustered together, connected by alleys and arches protected by high, equally white walls.
Baroque Architecture
Lecce is the jewel of Baroque architecture. Its distinctive architectural style, often called “Lecce Baroque,” is characterized by elaborate and ornate decorations. The Basilica of Santa Croce and the Piazza del Duomo are prime examples of this style. You can’t help but be in awe of these Baroque masterpieces, just as we were when, walking through the streets of the center, we suddenly found ourselves in front of the church of Santa Croce, its facade illuminated by the setting sun.
The Crystal-Clear Sea
After a day spent at the sea in Porto Cesareo on the Ionian Sea, and after seeing the small beaches of the Apulia Adriatic coast, we pledged our loyalty to the Italian sea. As a family, we have had the opportunity to spend vacations in several popular seaside destinations, but the sea in Puglia has nothing to envy of these well-known tourist spots.
The True Mediterranean Diet
In Puglia, the culture of good food and wine, thanks to the quality and freshness of the ingredients, can be enjoyed in many restaurants, trattorie, fornelli (butcher shops that turn into restaurants), and village festivals. In Cisternino, a small inland village dotted with trulli converted into private homes, we sat at the small outdoor tables of the fornello “Bere Vecchie” to enjoy bombette pugliesi and orecchiette with fresh tomato sauce, sipping a glass of robust Negroamaro from Salento.
In Speziale, a small village a few kilometers from Ostuni, Marinella took us to taste the real Puglian panzerotti, prepared by the king of panzerotti himself.
We ended on a high note by meeting Flavia (Spaghetti ABC), a knowledgeable and prepared food guide, in Polignano a Mare, who immediately opened the doors to the world of olive oil and its many facets. After tasting olive oil and other typical Puglian products such as Martina Franca capocollo, Puglian focaccia, mozzarella knots accompanied by cherry vincotto, Flavia guided us through the historic center of Polignano a Mare, eventually reaching a characteristic fishing harbor where we toasted with white Negroamaro and savored the freshest raw fish. We couldn’t miss tasting the “Caffe’ Speciale”, a special coffee, apparently invented in Polignano, prepared with amaretto liqueur, cream, and a lemon peel, which gave us the boost to continue walking and admiring one of the most beautiful villages in Italy.
The Optimism, Sunshine, and Sociability of the Puglians
Puglians are known for their warm hospitality. We met many open and friendly people who made us feel truly at home. The sunny disposition of Puglians is evident in their cheerfulness and positive approach to life, always ready to offer a smile or a kind word. Another characteristic of Puglian warmth is generosity. People are often willing to share what they have. We noticed this immediately at the weekly market in Ostuni, where fruit, vegetable, taralli, and friselle vendors wanted us to taste every single product they sold, proud of their work and their food. In many cases, we didn’t hold back, and we were glad we didn’t!
The Colors of the Puglian Countryside
The Puglian countryside is an extraordinary visual experience, where natural colors combine to create an environment that is both relaxing and fulfilling. The dark green of centuries-old olive trees mixed with the golden yellow of the fields, the intense red of the karst soil, the blue of the sky, and the blue of the distant sea is an image I tried to capture in my mind, hoping never to forget it.
The Trulli: Unique Cultural and Architectural Heritage
Alberobello, though a small Puglian village, is one of the most visited places in Puglia and famous worldwide. The Monti district, with its high concentration of trulli, was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996. Originally, trulli were used as rural dwellings, storage for agricultural tools, and shelters for animals. Their simple yet ingenious construction made them cool in summer and warm in winter, perfectly suited to Puglia’s climate.
These buildings are known for their conical roofs and whitewashed walls. In addition to their unique architecture, the trulli are famous for the religious, astrological, and magical symbols painted with white lime on their roofs, which are believed to have been used to protect the house and its inhabitants from negative influences. For us, walking through the streets of the trulli was an emotional experience that offered us a journey back in time, making us feel the history and traditions that shaped life in this region during a simpler and more authentic era than today.
Besides all that has been mentioned above, what I enjoyed the most was meeting Marinella again after five years. Despite the distance between us, our friendship has remained strong thanks to our shared passion for Italian food and our mutual love for our beloved Italy.
(FRANCESCA)
